Three Reasons Why Christian Louboutin (rightfully) Loses Battle Against YSL

Hi everyone.  Thank you for all the feedback on the CBS segment.  Your support has been overwhelming and super encouraging. 

Now, let's turn to the question on everyones mind: why did Louboutin lose when his red lacquered sole is so distinctive and clearly has secondary meaning (which is a legal term meaning consumers see the red sole and immediately know Louboutin makes that shoe)? 

(remember SJP in Sex in the City?  Louboutin can thank her and J-LO for increasing the recognizablity of his red sole, but I digress)

In the legal world, color can sometimes be a trademark if it meets the Qualitex test, which says color alone sometimes may be used as a trademark:

“where that color has attained secondary meaning and therefore identifies and distinguishes a particular brand (and thus indicates its source),” but not where it is functional, meaning that the use of the color will put a competitor at a significant disadvantage because the color is essential to the use or purpose of the product, or affects the cost of quality of the product."

But wait, Staci, you say.  I though I just read that you think Louboutin's red sole has secondary meaning?  Yes, I do.  But Louboutin still loses to YSL and here's three reasons why:

1.  Louboutin's testimony.  This was probably Louboutin's biggest mistake.  When asked why he put red on his shoe's outsoles, he said red gave his shoes "energy," red is "engaging," red is "sexy" and red "attracts men to the women who wear my shoes."  WOW.  His lawyers did not do a good job here, or more likely Louboutin just didn't listen.  All the reasons stated are considered functional under trademark law and do not support a finding the color red is a source indicator of the brand (a requirement for securing trademark protection).  To be even more blunt, Louboutin should have said, I put red on the bottoms of my shoes so people knew who made them while women were walking in my shoes ans wearing them around town. 

2.  Louboutin's trademark.   Louboutin's trademark application was vague -- it did not specify what color red (i.e. pantone color), it did not specify whether the red would limited to laquard (as is most common with Louboutin, which begs the question why did they challenge YSL "flat" red shoe) or whether it would be used only on soles of high heels or flats (the application said high fashion shoes) or even whether the use would be limited to couture compared to mass.

3. Chilling effect on the Business of Fashion.  In our world, there are three primary colors: red, blue and yellow.  If one designer was granted a monopoly on red, what would stop another from claiming yellow?  Due to Louboutin's poorly drafted trademark application, Louboutin asked for and received, very very broad protection.  If the Court upheld its registration, it foresaw unlimited controversies: is a red to close to Louboutin's?  Is use on a low end flat ok?  Does every designer have to run to the court before releasing a collection or worse yet ask Louboutin's permission?  Granting one company a monopoly on a color would allow large companies with large legal war chests to flood the trademark office and the courts.  Small designers would be hurt and the same litany of concerns surrounding the adoption of the Destruction of Affordable Fashion Bill i.e. the IDPPPA are raised here.

And one side note, sorry because I usually hate long posts: the judge did not say a fashion companies can never trademark a color as many are claiming he did. 

The judge said it is hard to claim color as a trademark in fashion and based on the facts of this case - Louboutin's awful trademark application and disastrous admission - Louboutin is not entitled use red as a trademark.

I also have to wonder why Louboutin chose YSL as its test case?   Especially when the YSL shoes Louboutin claim are causing customer confusion look nothing like his and have been used by YSL long before Louboutin used his red soles. 

 

Again, poor lawyering or maybe the result of two long time French competitors taking a grudge match to the US Courts.  Someone should have warned Louboutin about the American legal system.

Now, based on the judge's comments this week, it is clear he will cancel Louboutin's red sole mark, unless Louboutin immediately appeals the Judge's denial of Louboutin's request for a preliminary injunction. 

Since the law and the facts of this case are so clear, the only reason Louboutin would appeal is ego or lack of clear thinking as he is likely still seeing red.

Christian Louboutin (rightfully) Loses Battle Against YSL

My esteemed Fashion Law Colleague, Susan Scafidi, and I were both featured on CBS's the Early Show commenting on U.S. District Judge Victor Marrero's denial of Christian Louboutin's request for a Preliminary Injunction to stop Yves Saint Laurent  from selling red shoes, claiming YSL's shoes infringe on Louboutin's trademarked red sole.

As seems to be our pattern, Susan and I are on opposite sides of the issue.  While not shown on the CBS [Video], Judge Marrero's decision was "Dead On Balls Accurate."

WHY? 

Stayed tuned to learn why Louboutin should be seeing red from his many blunders in this lawsuit.

photo credit: CBS's The Early Show

Fashion Law 101: How to Create a Movement

First, I have to start off apologizing.  This post was supposed to go up yesterday in honor of B.A.F.F.L.E.D's second anniversary.

When I first suggested to friends and colleagues that there is such a thing as "fashion law," they laughed.  Now, six years into being a practicing Fashion Lawyer (as a Fashion Litigator and doing Fashion transactions), I don't get any laughter when I tell people what I do.   Most ask:

 

 

How do I become  Fashion Lawyer too?

Once I started blogging (which has almost been for two years now, wow!), I learned that there are a group of us that are passionate about Fashion Law.  I have made so many connections online, using twitter, facebook and by reading and commenting on other blogs.

Now, not all of us fashion lawyers agree, take take similar positions or even call themselves fashion lawyers.  (no lawyer jokes, please)   But discourse and debate is what a democracy is all about. 

And if you take a step back and look at the big picture, you'll realize that Fashion Law has had enough early adopters to become a trend.  More than that, Fashion Law has tipped the scales and become a movement......or in fashion lingo, into a legacy brand!  Fashion Law even has an institute at Fordham Law School and its own state bar section in NY!

So here is a quick shout to those that helped make it happen:

And for all you fashion brands out there, what's the lesson?  Believe in yourself and what you are doing.  With commitment, utilization of social media and the Internet and passion, others will begin to believe.  And before you know it, you can go from a company to a legacy brand!

What movement do you want to create?

photo credit: The Blog of Jake Adams

The "Destruction of Affordable Fashion Bill" or IDPPPA gets one step closer to becoming Fashion Law

Consumers beware.  The cost of clothing is about to rise.  Reasonably priced fashionable items will be non-existent and affordable clothing will be utilitarian and boring.  Why? 

The Innovative Design Protection and Piracy Prevention Act ("IDPPPA") was unanimously approved by the Senate Judiciary Committee yesterday and now moves into the Senate for a full vote.

Deceptively called the "fake fashion bill" by its supporters, this bill has nothing to do with Counterfeit goods or Knock-off goods, which are covered under trademark law and are illegal.

This bill, more appropriately called the Destruction of Affordable Fashion Bill, seeks to amend copyright law and will:

  • put numerous small businesses that don't have $400,000 to spend on litigation out of business;
  • cause 1.6 jobs to be lost in Los Angeles for every fashion job lost;
  • severely disrupt the fashion manufacturing process;
  • cause lenders to stop lending;
  • increase expediently the work load of the federal judiciary -- the court that rules on copyright litigation;
  • narrow your choice of clothes; and
  • increase the cost of the few items you can buy by at least 30%.

Pretty scary right?

And legally, the Destruction of Affordable Fashion Bill will wreck havoc in the courts, tying up dockets (and your inventory) for years because: 

  • it violates due process because designers are not required to file a copyright registration on their alleged "original design;" and  
  • its has new, uninterpreted terms - like "substantially identical," "deliberate copies" and "independent creation."

just to name a few problems. 

And, yes, the trial lawyers i.e. the plaintiff's bar that work on contingency fees, support this bill.  Why wouldn't they?  There is no loser pays provision in the Destruction of Affordable Fashion Bill, so if a plaintiff files suit on a design they feel is original and they lose, they never have to deal with the economic consequences. 

So let's all give a big round of applause to the CFDA and Senators Charles Schumer, Orrin Hatch and our own Dianne Feinstein

When unemployment rises, your business collapses and the economy gets more depressed then it already is, you'll know where to send your thank you notes.

Related Fashion Law Blog Posts:

Why IDPPPA is going to KO the Business of Fashion

IDPPPA: How to SLAPP the Sting Out of Frivolous Litigation

IDPPPA will not prevent frivolous litigation

BREAKING NEWS: New Design Piracy Bill Introduced into Senate

BREAKING NEWS: New Design Piracy Bill Introduced into Senate

Well, we knew it was coming.  Today, Senator Charles Schumer introduced the Innovative Design Protection and Piracy Prevention Act, or Senate Bill S. 3728 (IDPPPA).

While it seems that NY academics, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) have signed off on this bill, I cannot find any indication that the people involved in the business of fashion, or fashion litigators were consulted.

From a review of the bill, I only see some small improvements over the last version:

  1. Home sewers are free to make copes of anything for personal use;
  2. The increased damages that were proposed under DPPA were stricken, leaving section 1323 unchanged;
  3. The Plaintiff will have to plead his or her case with particularity -- like a fraud cause of action now, for example.  This implies that the Plaintiff will have the burden of proof on those elements, but we'll have to see how the courts interpret that language; and
  4. The drafters have tried to clarify what constitutes infringement.  The new standard is "substantially identical," which means "an article of apparel" (which includes clothes, handbags and eyeglass frames and hats, among other things) "which is so similar in appearance as to likely be mistaken for the protected designs, and contains only those differences in construction or designing which are merely trivial."  HUH?

Here are the confusing parts: 

First, fashion designs will automatically be protected so designers don't have to register the designs with the copyright office, saving the designer a $35 fee.  Interestingly, Counterfeit Chic is touting this point as a victory, but to me, how could one verify that a design is "new and unique" if there is no public database to search? 

Also, most federal circuits require copyright registration as a pre-requisite to filing suit.  In legal terms, this means a plaintiff does not have standing to file a claim unless they have a copyright registration.  Is this bill trying to change that federal requirement?

Second, so many designers mistakenly believe that their creation is new.  But almost all the design we see these days pull inspiration from the art of past designers.  A great example is Diane Von Furstenberg and the wrap dress.  She claims to have invented it, but fashion history students know that McCardell introduced a wrap dress in the 1940's.

Third, only an article that is "unique, distinguishable, non-trivial and non-utilitarian variation over prior designs for similar types of articles," qualify as a fashion design.  As a member of the fashion community, I shrudder to think how a judge is going to decide THAT question.

In sum this propossed legislation ignore the realities of the business of fashion including the financial ramifications of such a law and would make judges the arbitrator of fashion.

For example, I see:

  • a ton of litigation as the courts sort this out.  Pleading with particularity is no game changer.  It only adds an extra round of litigation costs.  Added litigation costs will raise the price consumer pays for apparel, something definitely not needed right now because the cost of clothing will likely rise anyways due to increasing cotton and labor prices.  Do we really need the consumer to bear more cost increases when our economy finally seems to be rebounding?  OR 
  • No one will be able to create a "fashion design" that qualifies under IDPPA as written, making it needless and irrelevant.

So, while I wait to see how the rest of the industry reacts, I see this as a big win for lawyers and big companies with the resources to sue. For now, I stick to my previous position:

As a practicing fashion lawyer, litigator, former COO of apparel companies and the fourth generation of my family to work in fashion, law professors and politicians with no hands-on fashion industry experience should not be allowed to "fix" something that they have no practical knowledge of. 

 photo credit: CFA

Fashion Loves Innovators: Destroying the Myth that Emerging Designers "need" the DPPA

Since the dawn of fashion, there have been those that have made a living from creating goods that look like, pay homage to, or are inspired by the original.  In today's WSJ, Christina Binkley discuss the speed at which copies or "knock-offs" arrive in the marketplace.  Binkley's explanation of why, is spot-on:

The fashion world is ravenous for new jewelry, accessories and clothes to fill the shelves of retailers and Web sites, many of which seek to offer fresh inventory as often as every two weeks. Often, existing designs become the inspiration for new, mass-produced pieces.

As I discussed previously, that is exactly how trends start.  In her article, Binkley uses the "Shashi bracelet" by Yuvi Alpert and Danna Kobo as an example of a trend:

  • The bracelet was introduced at retailers Henri Bendel and Intermix in May 2009;
  • Influential stars including Ms. Lohan and Katy Perry were soon wearing them;
  • By December 2009, Mr. Alpert and Ms. Kobo had sold 10,000 of the bracelets;
  • By February 2010, the bracelets' retailers began complaining about less expensive versions; and
  • Now, at the end of April 2010, orders are either no longer being written or are being canceled because cheaper versions are available.

I don't know about you, but any item that sells for over a year is pretty remarkable in an industry that requires fresh product every 6 weeks.  As Mr. Alpert and Ms. Kobo stated:

The Shashi helped fund the young designers' development of their more expensive Ruby Kobo jewelry line, for which they won a 2010 Council of Fashion Designers of America "Incubator" award.

That's pretty impressive. 

Despite this success, critics, like Professor Susan Scafidi of Counterfeit Chic,

I will end with two quotes:

When you are talking about fashion, lose the word original. Ask the small designers where they got their inspiration. Ha! They pull it from others." 

…Marc Jacobs; and from Project Runway's Tim Gunn:

"fashion designers, it’s not as though you’re creating fire or inventing the wheel. These things already exist.”
 

photo credit: mijjo

 

Fashionable Friday: Recommended Reading

Here's what I am reading this week:

The Cost of Counterfeits? GAO Doesn't Know [Counterfeit Chic]

Panel: Survival Tips for Small Biz [CAN BLOG]

Fashion Dos and Don’ts From the Windy City [ATL]

The Business of Counterfeit Products [Fashion Business Inc. Blog]

Fashion internships [Fashion Incubator]

If you think something important was missed, feel free to send stories and tips!

Fashionable Friday: Recommended Reading

Here's what I am reading this week:

It’s how you wear them that counts, not the label [Taipei Times] (from the archives, but still relevant)

Diesel Launches a Dance-tastic Interactive Fashion Video [All The Rage] (I LOVE the dresses)

Do You Need to be a Bitch in the Fashion Industry to Succeed? [Nicky's Rag Tales] (Personally, I use the description "pit bull with a rhinestone collar," but hey, I am just a fashion lawyer)

The Mommy Track Turns 21 [Slate]

Tiffany v. eBay 3: (Counterfeit) Silver Lining? [Counterfeit Chic]

How to Go Full Time (reminds me of that rap song that goes, "Go hard or go home." so true!  thank you @nametagscott for another great, inspiring and "Dead on Balls"accurate post!) and Are You Profitably Patient or Destructively Passive? [Hello, My Name is Blog]

Do You Even Care if Your Clothing is Eco-Friendly? [Fashionista by @lapresmidi]

Crowdsourcing Catching On With Fashion Pack [WWD]

If you think something important was missed, feel free to send stories and tips!